The excitement at Watches & Wonders 2025 reached new heights when Zenith revealed its breathtaking tribute to 160 years of horological excellence. The legendary Calibre 135, known for its groundbreaking precision, has been re-engineered for the modern era, and this reimagined masterpiece is already sending waves through the watchmaking world.
Zenith’s 160th anniversary is a bold statement about the future of precision, craftsmanship, and innovation in luxury timepieces.
In this blog, we’ll delve into how Zenith’s re-imagining of the Calibre 135 bridges its rich history with cutting-edge innovation.
A Legacy of Precision: The Original Calibre 135
Introduced in 1949, the Zenith Calibre 135 quickly became a legend in chronometric competitions for its unmatched precision. It won numerous awards at observatory trials and became a cornerstone of Swiss watchmaking. The Calibre 135’s success in these competitions solidified Zenith’s reputation as a leader in precision timekeeping, making it an iconic movement in the horological world.
Zenith has long been synonymous with precision engineering, and the Calibre 135 played a pivotal role in showcasing this. The movement featured advanced mechanical technology, including a regulated balance wheel and innovative escapement system, which contributed to its outstanding accuracy. Zenith’s expertise in chronometry not only propelled the Calibre 135 to fame but also reinforced the brand’s status as a pioneer in high-performance watchmaking.
The Re-Engineering Process
Improvements and Modern Enhancements:
Zenith’s re-engineering of the Calibre 135 combines cutting-edge technology with the original movement’s precision, resulting in several key updates:
Increased Power Reserve:
The power reserve has been extended to 72 hours, thanks to the new barrel spring made from Bioflex alloy, a material that improves energy retention.
Energy-Efficient Gear Train:
The movement features a redesigned gear train that reduces energy loss, optimizing performance while maintaining efficiency.
Enhanced Shock Resistance:
The addition of spring-mounted jewel settings ensures the movement is more resilient to external shocks, enhancing its durability for modern-day wear.
These enhancements ensure the Calibre 135 performs at an even higher level of precision, while also adapting to the demands of contemporary watchmaking.
Preserving the Original Spirit:
While embracing modern advancements, Zenith has remained true to the original spirit of the Calibre 135. The 18,000 vibrations per hour frequency, a hallmark of the original movement, has been preserved, ensuring the smoothness and accuracy of the timekeeping. Furthermore, the balanced architecture of the movement, known for its elegant simplicity and exceptional reliability, remains intact, keeping the essence of the Calibre 135 alive while elevating it for today’s discerning collectors.
The Zenith G.F.J.: A Tribute to Georges Favre-Jacot
Commemorating the Founder:
The Zenith G.F.J. is a fitting tribute to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, whose vision of precision and craftsmanship laid the foundation for Zenith’s legacy. By naming the watch after Favre-Jacot, Zenith celebrates his unwavering commitment to excellence in watchmaking. The G.F.J. model represents not only the brand’s heritage but also its continued pursuit of innovation, staying true to the values that have defined Zenith for over 160 years.
Limited Edition:
As a limited edition of just 160 pieces, the Zenith G.F.J. model is an exclusive offering that highlights the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and its rich history. This limited production makes the G.F.J. a coveted timepiece for collectors, offering not only exceptional quality but also a unique opportunity to own a piece of Zenith’s celebrated legacy. Each piece is numbered, further enhancing its value and rarity.
Design and Materials:
The 39.15mm platinum case of the G.F.J. reflects Zenith’s commitment to modern craftsmanship while honoring its heritage. The lapis lazuli dial gives the watch a distinctive and luxurious look, with its deep blue color symbolizing elegance and prestige. The interchangeable straps, available in dark blue alligator leather, black calfskin, and blue Saffiano calfskin, offer versatility and comfort, allowing the wearer to tailor the watch’s aesthetic to suit different occasions. The design seamlessly blends Zenith’s rich tradition with contemporary elegance, making the G.F.J. not just a timepiece, but a celebration of horological artistry.
Modern Features of the G.F.J. Calibre 135
Precision and Craftsmanship:
The G.F.J. Calibre 135 is a technological marvel that combines the highest standards of precision and craftsmanship with several modern innovations:
COSC Certification:
The Calibre 135 is COSC-certified, ensuring it meets the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute standards for precision. This certification guarantees the watch’s accuracy to within a few seconds per day, reflecting Zenith’s commitment to high-performance timekeeping.
72-Hour Power Reserve:
The power reserve of the G.F.J. has been extended to 72 hours thanks to the modern barrel spring made from Bioflex alloy. This advancement ensures the watch can go for several days without needing to be wound, a significant improvement over the original Calibre 135.
Intricate Guilloché Decoration:
The guilloché decoration on the movement’s bridges adds an aesthetic layer of intricacy and luxury, showcasing the brand’s attention to detail. This fine engraving not only enhances the watch’s beauty but also reflects the traditional craftsmanship that Zenith has mastered over the years.
Balanced Design with Skeletonized Movement:
The skeletonized design of the Calibre 135 allows for an intricate view of the movement’s components while maintaining an elegant and balanced appearance. The openworked structure highlights the technical artistry within the watch while ensuring the overall design remains harmonious and refined.
Functional Aesthetics:
The skeletonized design of the G.F.J. Calibre 135 is more than just a visual treat, it’s a functional aesthetic that serves as a window into the heart of the watch. By exposing the movement’s mechanics, Zenith allows wearers to appreciate the intricacy and precision behind each tick. The transparent case back and the openworked dial offer an unobstructed view of the mechanical movement, while maintaining an elegant and sophisticated aesthetic that enhances the overall appeal.
This balance between functionality and visual elegance makes the G.F.J. Calibre 135 a true horological masterpiece, where technical innovation and luxury design converge seamlessly. It allows collectors not only to enjoy the beauty of the timepiece but also to gain a deeper connection to the mechanical art that powers it.
